Posted by: charleslpayne | 06/21/2010

The Day Before Aslan

It was in the 80′s, the granite is a bit cheese-grater, and the city of Evergreen’s annual parade put us on a pork sandwich detour that lasted hours–but Jimmy was not to be deterred.

He took down a couple Three Sister classics (one of them being a 25+ move traverse that may have been a project from the right side of the wall). Watch the video below to see how Jimmy warmed up the day before sending his second 8B+ at the park.

Note: Voges took down the classic Thievery as well–See the video here on Modump.

Posted by: charleslpayne | 06/14/2010

Slaying In Wait

The classic slab on perfect granite from Colorado Daydream climbs differently nowadays. After a few years away from the bugger, I went back with Joanne in May and finished it up: Not the original beta–the right beta…if you still want to finish center of the boulder. Enjoy.

*Note: Kinda psyched on searching for new areas this summer. Time to clear up the jams.

Posted by: charleslpayne | 04/18/2010

The Inevitable Glory

Two major announcements today…

I have finally posted a 30 minute film from my trip to Font! Click here

And, my fantasy league declared me ‘champion’ for the second year in a row!

Posted by: charleslpayne | 03/21/2010

Fake Yell For Yonder

A.H.S.L. (Adam Henry Southeast Legend) has released THE Alabama guidebook. In it, he published insight from a variety of hands that helped shape the style of southern climbing. He did an amazing job bringing together their voices and spirit of the South, even though it is a guide :)

The thing that stood out to me the most (you can stop reading now if you don’t like sappy childhood stories or illusions of grandeur) is that I actually had a mention in ‘A Brief History’ of bouldering in the southeast. I remember reading a similar intro ‘History’ in my very first guidebook (The Dixie Cragger’s Atlas). Noted inside that guide’s testament to those who had come before, it referenced an unknown super strong mofo coming along and sneaking away with the last few plumbs of the area where I learned to climb. That ended up being Jeff Wales, a well deserved climbing partner of mine growing up. What I’m trying to say here is that seeing my name in print listed among those who have created so much happiness for the climbing world was rather rewarding.

In addition, Adam requested a few words from myself to include in the guidebook as a ‘perspective’ piece. After writing it, I half thought it would get left out of the final printing, but sure enough, it was in there directly after ‘perspectives’ from a few rather prolific southern gentleman–Bob Cormany, Jake Slaney and Brad Mcleod. As a teaser, because you should all go out and purchase the guidebook, I have posted my story below. Enjoy…

Southern Spirit

I have had more fun wrestling the pebbles of Alabama than doing anything else in my life. What’s key is the spirit of the climbers in the Deep South—that spirit truly holds the grit of the stone together. A healthy dose of passion, positive attitude, and respect keeps the heartbeat of Southern grappling in good rhythm…

Passion is most evident at the lip of a hilltop mushroom boulder, where beta hasn’t been gleaned any further, and you’ve out-climbed your energy and spotter. Your buddy is standing on top pointing at dimpled grips you should use, but willpower is the only real motivator. Here, you try harder than you’ve ever tried before, because, despite better reasoning, this summit is the most important thing in the world. The rock is grateful your instincts care so much!

A sincerely jovial attitude will be the key to the first ascent of the Consumption Challenge–Horse Pens 40’s hardest project: Climb all day at the Pens. Don’t just dillydally, if you aren’t sending your project, then circuit hard. When you’re completely exhausted, head to the restaurant and order some chicken tenders. Eat them with you fingers. Then, when you’re fatigued and your stomach is weighted, go directly to Consumption, and give it your best! With as much purpose as a blindfolded dyno, savor the moment, and forget about the summit. The rock is grateful you enjoy its creative nature!

Southern humble can be defined as talking mad shit while holding respect for whomever and whatever is the manure on trial. Respect and tradition are an ingrained part of good Southern style. Years of blood, sweat, and tears have gone into the routes in this guidebook. Because of that dedication, no good sixth sense about what will be possible in the future can be trusted until it has been well cultured on the grit of the South. So respect Alabama’s summated boulders as well as those who have summated before you. The rock is grateful you appreciate its depth of character!

…The stone of the South will continue to reward its wrestlers as long as a good attitude, passion, and respect are among the chosen sequence for scaling. Getcha some!

Posted by: charleslpayne | 01/17/2010

Turning The Table

I continue to improve my efficiency around the grade of v9. It’s fun to be able to climb at this level on any way, shape, or form. But a little discouraging how much expoentially harder subsequent grades are feeling as of late. Here are some photos of a day of climbing that has inspired to me to change that tune.

Waltzing up Punani sit

Then having a heart attack on The Mangler

And feeling the wrath

After thinking about this discrepency in my climbing, I took a closer look at the projects I have hanging over my colorado climbing, and have decided to post them here to hold myself accountable for their completion in 2010.

This list, now including The Mangler, represents problems that have evading me for far too long. I plan to focus on the reasons they are hard for me and tackle them one by one in the coming year. Stay tuned…

Posted by: charleslpayne | 10/18/2009

Gettin’ Meaner Each Time

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This is not the Mutombo finger wag, though I obviously did get properly rejected on the below send attempt of Right Angry Man yesterday.

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Instead, I’m blindly confident that the broncos are actually ‘gunning for that number one spot

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 10/11/2009

More Bite Than Bark

AFC Predictions Coming True!!!

11:52:08 AM Charles Payne: 17-19 broncos

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Fantasy Update!!!!

Chris Bosh is now playing on my team next to David Lee. Which, I’m pretty sure, will shore up my power forward position nicely.

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The Tied NLDS Series!!!

Now it’s off to a frozen tundra of Coors Field for game three. Predictions:

11:51:58 AM Charles Payne: 6-4 rockies

11:52:09 AM anthonysaviola: i was thinking 7-4 rockies

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AP Photo/David Zalubowski

Note: You should follow the Denver Bouldering Club, here

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 10/04/2009

Welcome to Rocktober

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The time has come for the Broncos to grit their teeth and really give it their best…Great, Great Job today Co’s!

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It’s also about time for the Rockies to refocus and, well, win!

09 MLB NLDS Matchup

And I need to get outside more…with a vengeance.

Nerves

Note: My fantasy basketball draft is set stacked. Nuggets abound, and his most gracious majesty is in attendance!

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 09/20/2009

Altitude With an Attitude

While the Broncos owned Denver, I spent the weekend in Boulder at my new favorite basketball court. Jump shots Sunday are shaping up to be a Bronco good-luck charm!

Week 2

And now we wait for the skies to clear. Here’s a cool photo of a summer storm burning off over the Teton’s cathedral view from my Labor Day weekend.

Cathedral

Posted by: charleslpayne | 09/13/2009

Shocking Sunday

Right after Denver’s shocking turnaround in their first regular season game, I decided it was time to fix a broken light fixture in my apartment. As it turns out, a screwdriver, an electric current, and a rolling computer chair are a dangerous combo! But, even with time spent on my back like a Bronco’s Defensive lineman during the Bengal’s touchdown romp down the field, it would all end well!

Savor the top of the division:

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Note: Psyched to get serious about sending again…

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 09/09/2009

Preserving The Putt Putt

My Labor Day was spent on a Web site to support Jackson Hole’s local wilderness access–Preserving the Putt Putt–Take a minute to learn more!

Morning Inspiration

Morning Inspiration

Posted by: charleslpayne | 08/06/2009

One Thousand Words

balcony sunset

One Thousand Words

Posted by: charleslpayne | 07/12/2009

Beowulf, The Dog

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This is my dog Beowulf.

Beowulf

If you've approached him at the crag, this is a better resemblance.

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I swear, he's harmless.

Beowulf

Aware and responsive. Rambunctious. But loyal, trustworthy, and obedient.

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Once, Beo climbed fifty feet of sheer granite to keep up with me on a solo ascent at Mt. Evans.

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He survived being ejected from a flipping Nissan Pathfinder.

Beowulf Cover of Nat Geo

Beo landed the cover of National Geographic in March 2008.

Beowulf

He's quite the deep thinker.

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After five years of living, he must have a lot of interesting thoughts.

Posted by: charleslpayne | 07/05/2009

Matter of Fact

Facts: Jimmy Webb is strong. Guanella Pass has some good bouldering. Mind matters. 

In the case that you prefer still imagery.

Read More…

Posted by: charleslpayne | 07/01/2009

Must Do Moves

So many things are ‘must do’ in my life right now. Here’s a video looking back to a different kind of ‘must do’ in the Reine Crete Nord area of Fontainebleau, France:

Posted by: charleslpayne | 06/23/2009

Tuesday Newsday

This is not a news blog. I couldn’t top Narc. However, the recent action at Mt. Evans deserves yet another blog mention! Some great new problems!

Since I’m not a news hub, I post thoughts or media which correspond, or not, with the modern times. Last night, I added a few Mt. Evans classics to Modump from Adam McKenzie. Moderate classics. Now anyone can enjoy the alpine arena without having to climb highball 8B!

Note: Tuesday Night Sessions begins tonight! See you there.

Posted by: charleslpayne | 06/18/2009

The Lately Wasn’t Likely

Years ago, I dreamt up a daily news concept that was about predicting the most ‘likely’ future events. Imagine a story like: Broncos Set To Match Lion’s Season Loss Record. It was called: The Likely. But that dream hasn’t happened.

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Actually, most of the stories I would have written about myself 6 months ago for The Likely didn’t happen either. Instead, a few of my other dreams took hold: I spent 2 months in France, opened a climbing gym, and continue to do great things at my day job.

I have learned that if the ride isn’t entertaining, then dream up one that is. And then try harder and and push yourself higher to make the goal achievement part all the more thrilling.

I need to start dreaming about some of those Colorado classics on my ticklist.

Note: Here’s a recent interview I did with Front Range Bouldering about the DBC.

Another Note: Now that I kick my non-jumping leg forward, I am ever closer to dunking! Any other technique hints out there?

Posted by: charleslpayne | 06/17/2009

Signature Moves

Signature Move:

Signature Moves:

Going to shoot now…

Posted by: charleslpayne | 05/27/2009

New Bouldering in Denver

It’s true. The Denver Bouldering Club is real, and it’s right around the corner!

The Web site is up with some pictures of construction, and an open house is scheduled for June 10. Be there, or be weak.

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 05/09/2009

Extraordinary Swag

I’ve been able to complete a few lines recently that have been on my Colorado ticklist for ages. Very happy about the Hard Boilded boulder getting crossed off, even though it’s quality is sub par compared to the lines I’ll be bagging this summer. Thanks to Chris Schulte for this great Boulder Canyon addition, with an equally cool name…

The Replacement Killers:

Note: You better get use to the videos, cause whenever I hear a good new song, It makes me want to film another short. This way, my jams get more play.

filming

Note: Dave Tieri’s sandlot league is cooler than any other pick up squad.

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