Posted by: charleslpayne | 07/12/2009

Beowulf, The Dog

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This is my dog Beowulf.

Beowulf

If you've approached him at the crag, this is a better resemblance.

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I swear, he's harmless.

Beowulf

Aware and responsive. Rambunctious. But loyal, trustworthy, and obedient.

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Once, Beo climbed fifty feet of sheer granite to keep up with me on a solo ascent at Mt. Evans.

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He survived being ejected from a flipping Nissan Pathfinder.

Beowulf Cover of Nat Geo

Beo landed the cover of National Geographic in March 2008.

Beowulf

He's quite the deep thinker.

Beowulf

After five years of living, he must have a lot of interesting thoughts.

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 07/05/2009

Matter of Fact

Facts: Jimmy Webb is strong. Guanella Pass has some good bouldering. Mind matters. 

In the case that you prefer still imagery. Enjoy:

leemind1

leemind2

leemind3

jimmymind1

jimmymind2

johnleft1

johnleft2

jimmybessie1

jimmybessie2

Note: Rylan crushed too!

Another Note: The DBC training area kicks your face.

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 07/01/2009

Must Do Moves

So many things are ‘must do’ in my life right now. Here’s a video looking back to a different kind of ‘must do’ in the Reine Crete Nord area of Fontainebleau, France:

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 06/23/2009

Tuesday Newsday

This is not a news blog. I couldn’t top Narc. However, the recent action at Mt. Evans deserves yet another blog mention! Some great new problems!

Since I’m not a news hub, I post thoughts or media which correspond, or not, with the modern times. Last night, I added a few Mt. Evans classics to Modump from Adam McKenzie. Moderate classics. Now anyone can enjoy the alpine arena without having to climb highball 8B!

Note: Tuesday Night Sessions begins tonight! See you there.

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 06/18/2009

The Lately Wasn’t Likely

Years ago, I dreamt up a daily news concept that was about predicting the most ‘likely’ future events. Imagine a story like: Broncos Set To Match Lion’s Season Loss Record. It was called: The Likely. But that dream hasn’t happened.

Picture 4

Actually, most of the stories I would have written about myself 6 months ago for The Likely didn’t happen either. Instead, a few of my other dreams took hold: I spent 2 months in France, opened a climbing gym, and continue to do great things at my day job.

I have learned that if the ride isn’t entertaining, then dream up one that is. And then try harder and and push yourself higher to make the goal achievement part all the more thrilling.

I need to start dreaming about some of those Colorado classics on my ticklist.

Note: Here’s a recent interview I did with Front Range Bouldering about the DBC.

Another Note: Now that I kick my non-jumping leg forward, I am ever closer to dunking! Any other technique hints out there?

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 06/17/2009

Signature Moves

Signature Move:

Signature Moves:

Going to shoot now…

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 05/27/2009

New Bouldering in Denver

It’s true. The Denver Bouldering Club is real, and it’s right around the corner!

The Web site is up with some pictures of construction, and an open house is scheduled for June 10. Be there, or be weak.

Picture 1

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 05/09/2009

Extraordinary Swag

I’ve been able to complete a few lines recently that have been on my Colorado ticklist for ages. Very happy about the Hard Boilded boulder getting crossed off, even though it’s quality is sub par compared to the lines I’ll be bagging this summer. Thanks to Chris Schulte for this great Boulder Canyon addition, with an equally cool name…

The Replacement Killers:

Note: You better get use to the videos, cause whenever I hear a good new song, It makes me want to film another short. This way, my jams get more play.

filming

Note: Dave Tieri’s sandlot league is cooler than any other pick up squad.

sandlot1

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 04/25/2009

B’s on a Thursday

Biking with Brian in Boulder. Talent on both sides of the lens!

solano_boulder_biking_0409_0323_l

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 04/22/2009

I Get It In Till The Sunrise

Proof

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 03/29/2009

The Ticked List

As promised, this post contains the entire list of completed problems from my fifty days in Font, all 319 wonderful sends. I don’t know the actual climbing days vs. rest days, but could estimate 33 climbing and 17 resting. Whatever it was, I certainly upped my PPD (problems per day) average on this trip.

Note: The following lists are organized using Bleau.info names/grades/locations. The grades are consistent with that majority opinion (my opinions are on 8a.nu).

Would love to hear if others agree with my favorite twenty sent?

 


Top 20 By Grade    
Name Grade Location
La Paillon Directe 4 Cuvier
Science Friction 5+ Apremont
Big Jim 6C Petit Bois
Le Cœur 7A L’Elephant
Le Toit du Cul De Chien 7A Cul de Chien
Hyper Plomb 7A Apremont
Égoïste 7A Apremont
La Baleine 7A Petit Bois
El Poussif 7A+ Isatis Surprise
Memel 7A+ Isatis Memel
L’Ultime Secret 7A+ Isatis Memel
Surplomb de la Coquille Assis 7A+ Isatis Hautes Plaines
Le Magnifique 7A+ Cuisinere
L’Aerodynamite 7B+ Cuvier
Fluide Magnétique 7B+ Cuvier
Rubis sur l’Ongle 7B+ Gorges aux chats
Eclipse 7C Cul de Chien
Hot Line 7C Reine Crête Nord
Controle Technique 7C+ Cuvier
Big Golden 7C+ Cuvier Rempart

 

Read More…

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 03/25/2009

Dreams Do Come True

My final day in Font unfolded as quite the storybook ending to a dream-realized trip: I decided to rest one day in order to give my best effort on the boulders I would attempt during my final siege. In addition, I convinced myself that getting up for sunrise at the boulders would be my best opportunity for good temps to send one of the final elusive boulders of my trip: Big Golden. I filmed the uber-strong Ludo Laurence sending this area classic early in the trip (the video is posted here), but half-ass attempts, exhaustion, weak fingers, and the fact that the entire boulder bakes in the sun, had delayed my summit. Not for long… Read More…

Ludo on Big Golden

Ludo on Big Golden

Read More…

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 03/18/2009

Ticking The List

Around 9 years ago, when I first dreamt of climbing in Fontainebleau, I concocted an exhaustive list of classics that I would have to try. I’ve nearly done my entire list, and found hundreds more to add, some of which I subsequently sent as well. It’s absolutely endless, and so motivating.

I’ve kept a new list of boulders that i’ve done on this trip, and it’s currently at 312 (I assure you, I only climb on the good stuff!!!). In addition to finding a way to post the full list, I hope to include my opinion of the best of the best I came across during my 50 days in Font.

Anyway, here’s a couple pictures of sending old-list and new-list classics:

Fourmis Rouges

Fourmis Rouges

Hot LIne

Hot Line

Note: The absence of spotting hands in these photos is for two reasons: I’m too high for them to appear, and there weren’t any spotters there. One pad for life!

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 03/14/2009

One Week Left

I have less than a week left to tick off the final boulders on my list. First on the list:

Obligatory Fontainebleau Sign Lever

Obligatory Fontainebleau Sign Lever

Surprisingly, I’m climbing at a pretty high level of consistency despite very little rest in 6 weeks. I wouldn’t even schedule a climbing day back in the states given the dire state my fingers are in, but I still find myself falling up classic boulders like Sale Gosse, Rubis sur l’Ongle, and Noir Desir on a daily basis. 

I’ve done more boulders on this trip than any 6 week period of my life, and it feels pretty damn good. In fact, I plan on simply repeating some of my favorites around Cuvier in the final days, and hoping to fall up a few more classics in the cool evening hours.

As far as satisfaction and accomplishment: I can feel the many years of success and happiness experienced by so many when I simply walk around the boulders of Fontainebleau. I think every send is shared with the forest, and ever moment can be relived through a simple gust of wind..blah..blah..Plus I’ve got a list of some 300 completed boulders that all made me smile.

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 03/10/2009

Go Go Gadget Slap

I don’t know how many days of bouldering I’ve had since I last updated. Waking moments all meld into rest or climbing, without any other distinction. But lately, the climbing has been amazing. Days that stack up with the best I’ve ever had! I’m turning into the kid that use to run through the forest with a new smile for every hidden corridor.

I’m also beginning to feel really comfortable on the easier stuff. My movement and strength now has a greater understanding of the rock here.

However, every now and then, I do have to employ super powers to make sure things go as planned. As you can see in this video of me flashing La Baleine, the ‘power slap’ came in real handy when my rare nemesis The Foot Slip attacked on the top out:

Note: My third video installment from Fontainebleau is soon to be posted at MomentumVM. Check for Nigel sending Sur-Prises, Myself on a cool dyno, and Mina crushing Sale Gosse.

Another Note: On Modump I posted a video of a fun powerful boulder I did the other day called Tina, Hier Kommt die Sahne.

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 03/05/2009

Every Last Drop

I’ve been in France now for over 30 days. In addition to doing hundreds of boulder problems, this trip has allowed me to refocus my life priorities. Pretty swell. However, I am looking forward to getting back to my Denver routine. There are people that I miss, and some things I’ve started, which I’m excited to finish up. 

But until the final boarding call, I am going to continue goofing off in the forest:

Note: I just updated Modump with video of a superb 7A+ that I mentioned in my last post. Surplomb de la Coquille assis. Yes, more excessive towel slapping.

Another Note: On this trip, I have kept at least one foot (I have 27 feet) in the advertising world. Recently, I posted a couple of interesting blog posts at www.rabbleandrouser.com. One about Pepsi’s new logo presentation .PDF, and the other about Facebook’s privacy policy blunder.

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 03/02/2009

Leave No Stone Unturned

I feel like I’m healing faster than I ever have. So, the fact that I’m getting hurt more frequently than ever, is okay. I wonder if there is some sort of Lost island effect going on in the forest of Fontainebleau. 

I’ve found and completed so many great problems on this trip, but with every ascent, I see another classic line in the distance. It’s inspiring and frustrating at the same time. Which is why I love climbing in the first place! Here is a list of a few highlights:  

  • Hardest Easy Problem – Le Faux Baquet - It’s more fun when it’s wet…and static.
  • Biggest Struggle – El Poussif – Cut my left eyebrow during this, “please don’t fall and re-injure my ankle,” effort.
  • Most Fun - Surplomb de la Coquille assis - Interesting sequence, classic moves, great holds!
  • Best Style - L’Aerodynamite – Okay, fine, best style on my second ascent of it.
  • No Chance of Falling – L’Ultime Secret – This one was never a question.
  • Most Satisfying – Sur-Prises – This boulder played a trick on me, but we’ve worked it out.
  • Best Problem – Fluide Magnetique – This is a must do!
L'Ultime Secret

L'Ultime Secret

Note: There are even more Font photos on Modump now, and my external hard-drive is full of raw video footage!

Another Note: A second video from my trip here in Fontainebleau has been posted to Momentum Video Mag. Check it out!

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 02/25/2009

A Big Sigh of Ugh

I still have a few more tricks up my sleeve, but shit, Font is one stingy climbing area. In the tool belt: two tweaked fingers, a freshly rolled ankle, and weeks of minimal rest. The best thing I have going for me is my skin, WTF! At any rate, I love learning the subtleties of technique for  dynamic movement on Font sandstone, its fantastic!

surprise

Sur-Prises at Isatis

eclipse

Eclipse at Cul de Chien

I am going to try my hardest to rest for a while. If I can hobble fast enough to keep up with all the amazing climbers out here, I might try to point my camera their way. There are so many inspiring ascents going down every day!

Note: I updated the music in the L’Elephant video of my previous post. Much more appropriate now, right?

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 02/22/2009

Le Toit du Cul de Chien

I really enjoy meeting new climbers, and there is no shortage in Font on any given weekend. Also, the forest seems to bring out a fun spirit in everyone–filling the soul with positive energy.

Anyway, this boulder is phenomenal! If you look closely, you can see me double clutch on the polished single-digit pocket as I’m reaching out the roof. (And, yes, I did clean my shoe on my pant leg before completing the last move)

Note: The camera confusion shot is for Dean, I have hundreds of them, apparently I can’t see pin-sized red dots very well from over 5 meters.

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Posted by: charleslpayne | 02/20/2009

Points Per Game

During the planning stage for my trip to France, I thought it might be cool try and send over 100 boulder problems in the forest. With a little more thought, I decided 250 new blocs would be an appropriate challenge.  Well, as it stands, I’m about halfway sent about halfway through my trip. Often times, I’m making up my own circuits by doing the good looking problems I see. Of course, I have hard projects too, and hopefully those sends will pick up soon.

Here is a sample from a rainy, 31-problem, half-day visit to L’Elephant:

Note: I’m keeping track of all the problems, and in the event that I succeed, I’ll make a posting for those that wonder “who saw it” or “how hard?”

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