It was in the 80′s, the granite is a bit cheese-grater, and the city of Evergreen’s annual parade put us on a pork sandwich detour that lasted hours–but Jimmy was not to be deterred.

He took down a couple Three Sister classics (one of them being a 25+ move traverse that may have been a project from the right side of the wall). Watch the video below to see how Jimmy warmed up the day before sending his second 8B+ at the park.

Note: Voges took down the classic Thievery as well–See the video here on Modump.

The classic slab on perfect granite from Colorado Daydream climbs differently nowadays. After a few years away from the bugger, I went back with Joanne in May and finished it up: Not the original beta–the right beta…if you still want to finish center of the boulder. Enjoy.

*Note: Kinda psyched on searching for new areas this summer. Time to clear up the jams.

I have finally posted a 30 minute film from my trip to Font! Click here

And, my fantasy league declared me ‘champion’ for the second year in a row!

The thing that stood out to me the most (you can stop reading now if you don’t like sappy childhood stories or illusions of grandeur) is that I actually had a mention in ‘A Brief History’ of bouldering in the southeast. I remember reading a similar intro ‘History’ in my very first guidebook (The Dixie Cragger’s Atlas). Noted inside that guide’s testament to those who had come before, it referenced an unknown super strong mofo coming along and sneaking away with the last few plumbs of the area where I learned to climb. That ended up being Jeff Wales, a well deserved climbing partner of mine growing up. What I’m trying to say here is that seeing my name in print listed among those who have created so much happiness for the climbing world was rather rewarding.

In addition, Adam requested a few words from myself to include in the guidebook as a ‘perspective’ piece. After writing it, I half thought it would get left out of the final printing, but sure enough, it was in there directly after ‘perspectives’ from a few rather prolific southern gentleman–Bob Cormany, Jake Slaney and Brad Mcleod. As a teaser, because you should all go out and purchase the guidebook, I have posted my story below. Enjoy…

Southern Spirit

I have had more fun wrestling the pebbles of Alabama than doing anything else in my life. What’s key is the spirit of the climbers in the Deep South—that spirit truly holds the grit of the stone together. A healthy dose of passion, positive attitude, and respect keeps the heartbeat of Southern grappling in good rhythm…

Passion is most evident at the lip of a hilltop mushroom boulder, where beta hasn’t been gleaned any further, and you’ve out-climbed your energy and spotter. Your buddy is standing on top pointing at dimpled grips you should use, but willpower is the only real motivator. Here, you try harder than you’ve ever tried before, because, despite better reasoning, this summit is the most important thing in the world. The rock is grateful your instincts care so much!

A sincerely jovial attitude will be the key to the first ascent of the Consumption Challenge–Horse Pens 40’s hardest project: Climb all day at the Pens. Don’t just dillydally, if you aren’t sending your project, then circuit hard. When you’re completely exhausted, head to the restaurant and order some chicken tenders. Eat them with you fingers. Then, when you’re fatigued and your stomach is weighted, go directly to Consumption, and give it your best! With as much purpose as a blindfolded dyno, savor the moment, and forget about the summit. The rock is grateful you enjoy its creative nature!

Southern humble can be defined as talking mad shit while holding respect for whomever and whatever is the manure on trial. Respect and tradition are an ingrained part of good Southern style. Years of blood, sweat, and tears have gone into the routes in this guidebook. Because of that dedication, no good sixth sense about what will be possible in the future can be trusted until it has been well cultured on the grit of the South. So respect Alabama’s summated boulders as well as those who have summated before you. The rock is grateful you appreciate its depth of character!

…The stone of the South will continue to reward its wrestlers as long as a good attitude, passion, and respect are among the chosen sequence for scaling. Getcha some!

Waltzing up Punani sit

Then having a heart attack on The Mangler

And feeling the wrath

After thinking about this discrepency in my climbing, I took a closer look at the projects I have hanging over my colorado climbing, and have decided to post them here to hold myself accountable for their completion in 2010.

• No More Greener Grass (~15 days of effort to date)
• Meatrope (~10 days of effort to date)
• Right Angry Man (~6 days of effort to date)
• Stinkbug (~5 days of effort to date)
• Bambi (~5 days of effort to date)
• Mind Matters (~5 days of effort to date)
• Black Ice (~4 days of effort to date)
• The Mangler (1 day of effort to date)

This list, now including The Mangler, represents problems that have evading me for far too long. I plan to focus on the reasons they are hard for me and tackle them one by one in the coming year. Stay tuned…

This is not the Mutombo finger wag, though I obviously did get properly rejected on the below send attempt of Right Angry Man yesterday.

Instead, I’m blindly confident that the broncos are actually ‘gunning for that number one spot‘

11:52:08 AM Charles Payne: 17-19 broncos

Fantasy Update!!!!

Chris Bosh is now playing on my team next to David Lee. Which, I’m pretty sure, will shore up my power forward position nicely.

The Tied NLDS Series!!!

Now it’s off to a frozen tundra of Coors Field for game three. Predictions:

11:51:58 AM Charles Payne: 6-4 rockies

11:52:09 AM anthonysaviola: i was thinking 7-4 rockies

AP Photo/David Zalubowski

Note: You should follow the Denver Bouldering Club, here

The time has come for the Broncos to grit their teeth and really give it their best…Great, Great Job today Co’s!

It’s also about time for the Rockies to refocus and, well, win!

And I need to get outside more…with a vengeance.

Note: My fantasy basketball draft is set stacked. Nuggets abound, and his most gracious majesty is in attendance!

And now we wait for the skies to clear. Here’s a cool photo of a summer storm burning off over the Teton’s cathedral view from my Labor Day weekend.

Savor the top of the division:

Note: Psyched to get serious about sending again…